Dance and Theater

The day today started so early and is ending so late (I just calculated I've been awake for 18 hours now - not something I really intended to do). The morning needed to start early to finish my homework, and to let the maids come do their work. The maids, by the way went completely overboard in their cleaning. Every bed was made, every floor sparkling, every dish washed and the trash and recycling both emptied. We got an e-mail telling us to take out our trash more often because it was "overflowing". We then explained that we recycled but had no receptacle for it, and had been using a bag beside the trash can for this purpose. That's what they get for trying too hard in my opinion. We were expecting a febreezing of the bathrooms, a sweep of the common area and MAYBE the kitchen. We weren't prepared for hotel services. Oops.

Anyway, once homework, cleaning and classes were done, the day really began. Tonight we were able to attend a free lesson of traditional Greek dancing. I wish I had been able to use my camera (a little impossible when you're in the middle of a line dance) but I saw some flashes going off from the faculty (who later joined in), so I'm going to try to find those. We might also take further classes depending on the price and how many of us are willing to pay it. The lesson itself was about 30 people in a classroom with the desks pushed against a wall, shoes off, trying to keep up with a professional dancing instructor as he joked, jumped, twirled and general made fun of/had fun with us. It was the best dance lesson of my life.

Directly after that, K and I started off for the Dora Stratou Theater on Philopappou Hill (next to the Acropolis) where we were going to see a production of Trojan Women by Euripides. When we got there, K realized she'd forgotten her ticket and by that time it was too late for her to turn back and grab it. The show was completely sold out, and she couldn't get another, so I had to go alone - very sad for both of us, but she seems all right and I'm just glad I got to see it. K says she's seen Greek theater before and will again.

So - about Greek theater. The Greeks are REALLY into it. I've never heard an audience more enthralled. I sat on the very back row of the outdoor, 800 seat, completely filled theater (I realized later that another 40-odd people had crowded on the hill behind to watch the show as best they could) and even from the back I could hear almost every word without the actors using microphones. I'd also never understood the full power of a chorus in tragedy before this. The sounds human voices can make surprise me every time I hear melodies like this - bone chilling, both modern and ancient, noises of pure sorrow and love. I didn't need to understand the words (it was entirely in Greek of course - including the ticket and program) to follow the story easily, just by the strength of emotions that fell from the stage. I've been to Broadway shows that were less effective than this, and those had to contend with neither the twilight bark (which I now believe really exists) nor the noises of motorbikes and parties from nearby cars. I will definitely be returning (hopefully with K) to see more of these whenever I can!


Attempted picture of the pre-show stage. I took several and they were all this blurry. I felt bad using flash, even pre-show, since I seemed to be the only non-Greek in the audience, and it was simply too dark to get a good picture.

After the show I had to walk back alone, but the walk was quick and I was able to stick to groups from the theater for all but the last two blocks back to the apartment. Athens is hopping after dark - people are walking their dogs, children play in the ruins and by restaurants, people sit and drink coffee until 2 or 3 am. I won't attempt to explain, but it does make me feel much safer to know that every light is on and people are going about their business, so I'm not alone in a foreign city. I will say though, that walking out of that theater was the most alone I've ever felt in my life. I wasn't unhappy, per se, but I felt this pounding, almost painful desire to know Greek - not even well enough to have understood the entire play - but at least well enough to really communicate with the hundreds of people around me, who all seemed to be laughing and talking about the show. I wish I could have joined in. One day. (Mollie swears I spoke Greek in my sleep last night, but I don't think I said anything more exciting than "It's over there". Oh well, it's a start.)

Anyway, καληνύχτα!